Brattberget

The mountain is wonderfully located by the sea, with a lovely view of the Sundsvallsfjärden. As the mountain faces to the east, summer is the best season for a visit. Being early in the day can also be an advantage, as the mountain ends up in shade pretty early in the afternoon. The location of the mountain by the sea also makes it quite cold during spring and autumn. Brattberget is a mountain that evolved at that time when men were men and climbers more men. Several of the joints were made with marginal self-made fuses and the joints cannot be said to be the most well-insured with today’s measurements. Since this has allowed many nice but dangerous leads in the 5/6 registry to mossat again, the Sundsvall climbing club has begun a careful overhaul of the rock to make some of the insomnia joints available to a wider audience. Brattberget now offers a number of very fine, fully bonded sports trails and the old classics have received (and get) new fresh anchors. Some of the joints on Brattberget are of mix character where you need some wedges and then the rest get bolted. Or the opposite. Many joints have top pickers or nearby anchors (also the trad classics such as the scrub) that can be accessed from above. Bring some long loops if you want to top. Crimps make up most grips and there is also some single crack. The slope on the walls is just under 90 degrees. There are good opportunities for overnight stay at the wind protection at the top of the mountain. It can be tricky to find comfortable tents so bring a mosquito net and slept in the wind protection. Near the wind protection there is also dass. Water must be carried with you. At the wind protection there is also a fireplace with barbecue grills. This is primarily for cooking. If you want to arrange a proper campfire to sit and lie around, there is another fireplace, this is located in a pot above the lake wall in the corner between Sjöväggen and the Card side. From Sundsvall you drive south to Kvissleby, about 15km. In traffic lights, you take the left towards Nyhamn. If you arrive at E4 from the south, you drive past Kvissleby centre (which you have on the right side), and turn right at the traffic lights. Drive over the Ljungan and take the left right after the bridge. Drive through Nyhamn and Stockstrand and continue until you reach a few cisterns. A couple of hundred meters after the cisterns, a small road point enters the left – drive into it and park in the dung. Follow the path over the mountain to the wind protection – just over 5 minutes of anmarch. The rock itself lies southeast of the wind protection – or to the right of it when you come from the parking lot. To get down to the rock, there are two paths. Either: Go straight to the water right down from the wind protection. You then come to a large, blocky descent gutter that you can scramble down in with some caution. Follow the path that goes on top of the cliff and takes you farthest away on the big wall. There are fixed ropes that will help you down the path down to the entrance on Over the Top. This route is recommended for the first time visitor.